Secret Paris

There are few things lovelier than discovering a side to a city you never knew existed. I call it the mille-feuille effect. You tap away the top layer and then realise there's another 20 just-as-luscious layers hiding beneath it.

It's even lovelier when those lower layers are discoveries you don't expect. Stumbling across a secret place or a little-known destination can really enrich a city and make a trip there truly memorable.

I'm often asked for unusual places to visit, and I love hearing suggestions from others in return. So I thought I'd do a little travel triptych of the top three international cities, Paris, London and New York, and the secret (or semi-secret) places that I love to visit whenever I'm lucky enough to be in these destinations. First up is Paris, and London and New York will follow in the next few days. I hope you enjoy! And do let me know of your favourite places too. I'd love to start a regular post on readers' picks!

SECRET PARIS

THE SECRET GARDENS OF HOTEL SULLY

Fodor's describes this early Baroque gem as "one of the city's loveliest hôtels particuliers", and I'd have to agree. Hôtel de Sully, on the Rue Saint-Antoine in the Marais (just near the Place des Vosges), is truly one of the city's best-kept secrets, and perhaps that's a good thing. Less people to obscure the glorious garden views. The classical formal gardens are a delight on a sunny day (or even a winter's one): quiet, free from Marais noise and traffic and with just enough people-watching to keep things interesting. I always detour through here on my way to the Place des Vosges. Rue Saint-Antoine, 4th.

LE SENAT HOTEL
Hotels open up in Paris faster than you can say "one Ladurée macaron, please", and it's always a challenge finding a decent, neat, semi-stylish and – more importantly – justifiably affordable one to stay in. (A hotel is ideal for anything less than 5 nights in Paris; more than that and it's best to hire an apartment.) But one – Le Senat – never disappoints. It's slightly more than I can afford but it's worth it. The position – right next to the Luxembourg Gardens in the 6th – is perfect, the breakfast room, bar and courtyard (above) are all charming without being pompous or twee, the balconied views of rooftops and Parisians in the street below are pure theatre, and the crisp, witty, monochrome rooms are the kind you emulate at home. Best of all, it offers baths – that rare Parisian treat! Big, luxurious, marble bath tubs. Just perfect after a day traipsing around the rues. 10 Rue de Vaugirard, 6th.

TROCADERO HOTEL
Forgive me if I've mentioned this hotel before: I'm utterly in love with it. So, too, is Armani: he books it out for his staff each Fashion Week. Formally known as the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan's Hotel, its fans just call it the Trocadero. (Well, who can remember the rest?) It's a gem of a place; a sweet boutique hotel with a beautiful, neo-classical decor. Rooms feature gorgeous Parisian beds, fab antiques and classic Parisian views, the elevator is lined with Louis Vuitton steamer trunks, and the Champagne Bar only serves – wait for it – Champagne! I would book it for my honeymoon but my partner hates Paris. Yes, I know. I'll just have to go alone. 117 Rue Lauriston, 16th.

LE BISTRO DU PEINTRE

Many Parisian regulars – including the jaded foodies who've seen it all – view the turn-of-the-century bistro known as Le Bistrot du Peintre ("The Painter's Bistro") as one of the most beautiful Belle Epoque dining spots in the city. It's out of the way, but boy, is it worth the walk. I adore coming here. Venturing into the 1902 Art Nouveau bar is like stepping back in time. Just entrancing. 116 Avenue Ledru Rollin,  11th.

7L BOOKSTORE

Karl Lagerfeld's bookstore is a little like the man himself: insightful, intelligent, full of wit, humour and surprises, and incredibly difficult to find. It stocks all the latest and greatest fashion, photographic, architecture, style and art releases, plus a few unexpected titles – many of them approved by the big man. Lagerfeld's studio is nearby, so if you're lucky you might see him wandering the streets – he often pops into bookstores nearby to assess their stock picks! 7 Rue Lille, 7th. 

L'EPICERIE DES SAINT PERES

Most Parisians (and a great many insightful foreigners) are well aware of Odorante florist, that sublime gallery of floral glamour in the 6th arrondissement. But few know of L'Epicerie, which is just up the road. The original L'Epicerie was a gourmet deli (and is still across the road), which offered (and still does) all sorts of delicacies for the perfect picnic in the Luxembourg Gardens. Well, now its little sister, a just-as-exquisite florist shop, offers you Parisian-pretty bouquets to take home and dress your hotel room. L’épicerie des Saints Pères, 23 Rue des Saint Pères, 6th.

PAUL BERT ANTIQUE AND FLEA MARKET

Lots of people head off early on a Saturday or Sunday to the famous Clignancourt markets to find themselves a French bargain. They get there, amid the tourist masses, shuffle down one or two alleys full of kitschy stuff, fight for breath in the stalls, and then get the train home again, exhausted and wondering what all the fuss was about. Well, let me guide you. Don't go to the flea markets without a proper plan (and a map). Or just go to Paul Bert. The Paul Bert and Serpette markets are two of the best in this enormous and exhausting place, with quality antiques and pieces that are ahead of, or in line with, the global trends. Vernaison is another that's popular but I prefer Paul Bert. Fabulous for seeing what's going to be in vintage/antique fashion in the months to come. 96 Rue des Rosiers and 18 Rue Paul Bert.

The Importance of a 'Blog Spot'

A writer friend of mine can work anywhere. In her garden. In her bed. In her living room, with the laptop perched on a copy of Christian Liaigre while Downton Abbey plays in the background. Even in a shack in the wilds of Wales. I don't know how she does it. She could probably write her books with a burlap bag over her head.

I'm not that talented. I can write in unfamiliar places if I'm forced to, and on deadline. (For example, at JFK airport in NY, with the laptop perched my lap and my legs perched, in turn, on the luggage: not recommended for more than four hours if you want to be able to walk again.) But I prefer to be in the hyggelig quiet of my office, with books on tap, piles of notepads and lists within reach, inspiration all around, and natural light flooding in on two sides.

This, dear readers, is my writing spot. It's also my blog spot. And my thinking spot. (And occasionally a dreaming spot!) It's a place to write, create, contemplate, conceptualise ideas and generally consider life. Virginia Woolf was so very right. Everybody needs a nook or cranny to call their own. It's so important to create your own private hideaway, whether it's a potting shed, an alcove under the stairs or simply a desk in a sunny corner of the bedroom. Without a place to retreat from the world, it can be difficult to think, let alone find the imagination to create.

Find your nook. Because if you don't, I can't tell you how difficult your writing life will be. For the last few months I've been working out of our downstairs library. But I was miserable. It was cold. Dark. Windowless. And uninspiring. I felt like I was in Guantanamo Bay. My productivity slowed to 10%. Over the past few days, I've been moving everything to a room upstairs. With light. Warmth. Views of trees. And doors out to a sunny terrace. I tell you, I feel as though I've escaped Guantanamo and gone to the Turks & Caicos Islands!

Now it doesn't take a lot of money to create a writing nook. Mine was cobbled together with a black  trestle table ($60), black-and-white striped fabric from Ikea ($6/m), two old chests of drawers that we painted black (free) and 'Do Not Disturb' signs from some of my favourite hotels tossed in a cheap black frame. The most expensive thing was my beloved Italian lamp. If you love books, put them in your sight line. desk. If you like photos, hang them around you in a kind of Happiness Gallery. And if you like to see the sun, the leaves and the changing light as it crosses the sky from morning to twilight, move your desk to a window.

I promise you. It will do you – and your writing – the world of good!

Here are some other inspiring work places. Hopefully you'll also be motivated to break out of Guantanamo and find/redecorate your own perfect writing space.

Danish designer Marlene Birger's desk at her home in Copenhagen. {Via Marlene Birger's book Life & Work}

And another lovely space from Marlene Birger...

Architect Robin Standefer's office, where he dreams up his magnificent interiors for the clients of his firm Roman & Williams. {Via Roman & Williams} 

India Hicks' study in her house on Harbour Island, in the Bahamas. This room was originally painted in David Hicks-inspired red, but when India's daughter came along she repainted it in shell pink, which also reflected the colour of nearby Pink Sands Beach. I love this writing room. {Via Garden & Gun}

Another gorgeous work space that shows how glamorous pink can be. {I've mislaid the credit for this so do let me know if you have it.}

This was an incredible workroom. Featured in Matchbook magazine, it was the office of a 'paper artist' who creates the most magical art from pages and books and other whimsical paper-based things. Truly enchanting. {Via Matchbook}

Topping It Off... The New Trend For Top Hats

It must be one of the more unusual trends to develop in the fashion and design worlds. The fad for top hats and bowler hats has finally come out of the closet (literally), where it lingered for several years as one of those quietly whimsical thing only stylists knew about, and is now firmly in the Glamoursphere. (That inner circle where high-fashion items sit. Also known as the IN list.)

Photographer Rodney Smith used them first. Well, actually, Margritte used them before him. Then The Thomas Crown Affair adopted them... Then Ralph Lauren. Then Lady Mary, I think? Oh, I forget the order. But here are some fine examples of this dashing fashion accessory, which will soon be making an appearance in a closet or home near you...

Spotted on the New Victorian Ruralist's website this morning. Like the fine dandy he is, James has adopted the top for his brand photo. {finderskeepersmarketinc.blogspot.com}

Shot on Fifth Avenue in New York on a recent trip. This was a stunning window display. I'm sorry now that I only snapped this detail.

The extraordinary photography of Rodney Smith, who is undoubtedly one of the best photographers in the world. Mr Smith (he's so extraordinary that he really needs to be called Mr Smith) uses the bowler hat as one of his recurring motifs, and in fact has made  it his signature look. Even his website has the bowler as the favicon. So witty. {rodneysmith.com} 

The inimitable Thomas Crown Affair, and the equally inimitable Mr Brosnan. How is it possible that a man can look this handsome? The film's poster and indeed some of the storyline was inspired by Belgian surrealist René Magritte's self-portrait 'The Son of Man' (or 'Le fils de l'homme' in French). The painting is about the idea that we all hide behind a facade of sorts. "Everything we see hides another thing. We always want to see what is hidden by what we see," Magritte explained of his famous work. He also painted 'The Man in the Bowler Hat', but in my opinion it isn't as witty. 

The legendary Marlene Dietrich. Did you know she and Greta Garbo once got it on in Frank Sinatra's Palm Springs pool to try and turn Frankie on? No? A bit of Marlene trivia for you there....

And Kate Moss' reinvention of M's signature look..

And then Ralph Lauren's versions...

Oh, how I love, love, love the top outfit. There's nothing like a top hat (in this case a riding one) and a sliver of veil to create a sexy, slightly androgynous mystery. One blogger called it "a statement piece – a mix of high fashion, equestrian chic, and burlesque femme fatale." Just add a black bustier dress and killer stilettos, she said. I agree. Although I'd perhaps put something on down below, as well, just to be modest. {Via Ralph Lauren}

.

Not that Dita von Teese cares about top OR bottom... But when you're this gorgeous, you only need to wear a top hat to look fabulous. (Although perhaps tuck that nip in a bit Dita...)

Another sassy little lady is Lady Mary from Downton Abbey, who just looks more and more fantastic with each scene. This was perhaps my favourite. The riding scene. Just before she...well, you know.

Did you know there's a website called F--k Yeah Lady Mary? (Forgive the language. My Catholic grandmother would be stirring in her grave right now.) It calls itself a site for "fans of the flawlessly flawed Lady Mary Crawley". You can look it up at {fyeah-ladymary.tumblr.com} Do take a look – it's surprisingly good.

The always-glamorous Kate Waterhouse, who never puts a foot wrong during Spring Racing Carnival. Unlike some of the horses I back. {Via SMH}

Photographed in New York on a recent rip. While not exactly a top hat or bowler hat, this window display did tap into the current fashion for all things equestrian and/or dandy-ish... I suggested to my sister-in-law that she might like to wear this to Derby Day. I'm sure it would have gone a treat at the Emirates Marquee.

My bowler hat in our Black Library. This came from the great little vintage store Izzi & Popo in Melbourne. It sits with my favourite photographs of Miami's iconic Raleigh Hotel, a receipt from the first date my partner and I went on (The European in Spring Street), and a paper skyline of New York that he created as a Valentine's Day card one year. (I've asked him to do Paris this year, but he muttered "one was enough!") 

By the way, there's a funny story about the receipt. I had it framed and then realised, looking at the total bill of $250, that my partner would have never spent that much on dinner! Turns out it was from another date at the very same restaurant exactly a year before! How ironic is that? I had to do a fast swap before he noticed and said "What the...?"

Royal Ascot, which I attended as a media representative, even though I know next to nothing about horses, racing OR society events of this nature! But the top hats were fabulous.

And finally, to top it all off (sorry, couldn't resist), there are these fantastically witty, neatly dressed top hat pendant lamps by designer Jake Phipps. Perfect for adding a dash of whimsy to a space, these lampshades are made of actual top hats lined with anodized aluminum for an authentic British Gentleman charm. Can't you just see these in a cool bar somewhere in Mayfair? {www.jakephipps.com}

(More) Sublime Libraries

Ralph Lauren's Brook Street collection. Love a library that matches the decor. {Via Ralph Lauren and Habitually Chic}

Another Ralph Lauren library, this time from the recently released One Fifth collection. A touch too gold for me, but still decidedly glamorous. {Via Ralph Lauren}

The enviable walk-through library of Carrie and Mr Big in Sex and the City 2. This was my favourite room in their much-blogged-about residence. It not only offered an elegant, aesthetically beautiful space in which to showcase Carrie's books, it also provided a clever little hall to link the entrance and their bedroom. {Via Elle Decor}

Another ingenious home that uses a library as a lovely entrance. When this exquisite little cottage in Melbourne's South Yarra went up for sale, it was immediately snapped up by a stylish bibliophile. The image below shows the black front door that leads from the street straight to the library, and the floor plan is below that.

The artful library of French interior designer Frederic Mechiche's townhouse in Paris. Superbe! {Via Marie Claire Maison}

A beautifully designed New York library by the incredibly talented team of Roman & Williams.  One of my all-time favourite libraries. {Via Greige and Roman & Williams}

The handsome country house library in Badgley Mischka's Kentucky getaway.  {Via Elle Decor}

The sleek, modern library of French designer Christian Liaigre. {Via Maison–Christian Liaigre by Herbert Ypma}

The dignified library in the bedroom of the late Bill Blass's Connecticut residence.  {Via At Home With Books}

The white library of Stephen Shubel's restored 1906 fisherman's cottage in the coastal village of Sausalito near San Francisco. This house has been around for more than a decade, and yet it hasn't dated. Timeless black and white – don't you love it? {Via stephenshubeldesign.com}

The beautifully detailed two-storey suite of the City Club hotel in New York. Designed by Jeffrey Bilhuber, this incredible hotel room has its own soaring library. But it might be difficult reaching for a book... {Via City Club Hotel New York}